Every monsoon, a small and distinctly bitter wild vegetable makes a brief appearance in the markets of Bharatpur, Rajasthan.
Known locally as bitter kankoda or kakora, spiny gourd is a seasonal favourite that continues to attract buyers despite its sharp, bitter flavour.
Scientifically known as Momordica dioica, spiny gourd is also called kantola, kakrol or kankoda in different parts of India. The variety seen locally in Bharatpur is smaller than the commonly sold kankoda and is easily recognised by its spiny exterior and characteristic bitterness.
WHY IT APPEARS ONLY DURING THE MONSOON
Bitter kankoda is not available in markets throughout the year. Its arrival is closely associated with the monsoon season, creating a short window during which local consumers can buy the vegetable.
Its limited availability has also helped make it a sought-after seasonal food. Many people in the region wait for the monsoon to arrive before adding the vegetable to their kitchens.
BITTER RAW, FLAVOURFUL AFTER COOKING
The vegetable’s natural bitterness may be strong when eaten raw, but cooking gives it a more balanced taste.
In local kitchens, bitter kankoda is generally cleaned and chopped before being cooked with onions, oil and a blend of spices. The combination helps soften its bitterness while bringing out a richer flavour.
For many consumers, its appeal lies precisely in this transformation — a vegetable that starts with a sharp taste but becomes much more enjoyable once properly prepared.
WHAT TRADITIONAL AYURVEDA ASSOCIATES WITH IT
Dr Chandraprakash Dixit of the Government Ayurveda and Yoga Naturopathy College in Bharatpur described bitter kankoda as wild kankoda and highlighted its traditional uses.
According to him, the vegetable has traditionally been associated with digestive health and maintaining healthy blood sugar levels.
It has also been used traditionally in connection with skin health, with some rural communities incorporating it into home remedies.
These are traditional Ayurvedic associations and should not be treated as established medical treatments or substitutes for prescribed care.
WHY BUYERS STILL LOOK FOR IT
The combination of limited availability, traditional familiarity and its distinctive flavour keeps bitter kankoda popular in Bharatpur.
Vegetable sellers say demand increases when the seasonal produce reaches local markets. While its bitterness may discourage some buyers, others specifically seek it out because it is available only for a short period.
For many households, its arrival is part of the monsoon food tradition — a reminder that some of Rajasthan’s most valued seasonal foods are available only for a few weeks each year.
Bitter kankoda may not be the easiest vegetable to love at first bite, but its short season, traditional culinary importance and unique flavour have helped it maintain a loyal following in Bharatpur.
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